Dinner Key, Coconut Grove

Ok, Boys and Girls, another Bligh insignificant history segment. The first thing one notices on approach to this marina is a substantial building with hangars that is now the Miami City Hall and the hangar is a boat storage facility. It is not usual for marinas we have visited. When checking in at the office, there is a display of Pan Am Flying Boat models and write ups about the history of this place. Seems that it was the second largest Naval Air Station in the nation in 1917 being separated from the mainland by a small channel, hence the name Dinner Key. After WWI, Pan American Airways established this place as a headquarters, if not the main headquarters and started flying boat service between his place and South America. At the time, it was considerted one of the largest American airports. After WWII when technicological advancements made the flying boat obsolete, Pan Am moved operations to Miami International Airport and abandon flying boats. The facilities reverted to the city of Miami where the old Pan Headquarters became the Miami City Hall. Surprise, the city hall is not in the high rise area to the north which might seem to be the city center. As a side note, the old hangar still remaining was the place where Jim Morrison of Doors fame was arrested in 1969 for exposing himself to the audience (really not worthy of note). Now Dinner Key is the site of one of the largest marinas in Southern Florida. What history this place holds. One can almost hear those old Wasp 820 hp engines moaning on the Clippers.

We took some time today to visit West Marine again for charts and spare parts. Said WM is in Fort Lauderdale some 30 miles away. Getting tired here of visiting WMs.

ack at the boat, we saw a fellow rowing a boat towing a boat. Now that is purists. Above is a shot of the fellow. Also shots of this historic place.

One more day here then up north we go. Bear is doing some exercises that are to release the spasm. Thanks to an old friend on the west coast, we learned that said spasms result from sitting in certain positions for extended times such as being on a boat for months. Hopefully, we will see improvement on her back. There is little joy if the Admiral is not happy.

Memorial Day

Memorial Day, 2010
It was a time of great turmoil and the country was not in great shape economically. Americans were doing their best to get along and to do what is right. The citizens were wondering what the future had in store for the nation and for their families. Folks were so busy just living day to day that any opportunity to help out was the goal.

The person of whom I speak was a farm boy living a long way from town. His dad made sure he attended the local high school but did not want him to waste time on sports or any other non-essential activities. Go to school then get home to help with the farm. When the boy broke his ankle playing football, he paid dearly and argued with his dad. He decided to run away and so he moved to California and started a new life. Just a few months after moving in with an aunt and uncle in Southern California the war broke out. At seventeen, he was quick to join the service. Too short for the Marines, he enlisted in the Navy.

The farm boy/sailor had dreams for sailing the world. They sent him to Faragut, Idaho for basic. It was winter and he had never seen much really cold weather. Upon graduation, he went to gunnery school and became a gunner’s mate. His services were needed and off to the Fleet he went. This time he went to the Aleutians and way more cold. A few months into that with little chance to use his gunnery skills, he was transferred to the South Pacific where the story was different, very different. By is eighteenth birthday, he was on a gun mount in a Navy war aboard DD-666, The USS Black, a destroyer. Not a great ride he once said. They had to bum ice cream from the larger ships if they were to have any. I sort of think of destroyer sailors as the Navy equivalent of a grunt if there is one. Bad grub, bad conditions, hard work and way too little sleep. He got to ride through Halsey’s Typhoon and the ship was buttoned up for several days. Hot, no air conditioning and too rough to eat. He mentioned that of the years he was as sea, he was seasick only once and that lasted over four years.

He did not speak of that experience until I got my orders for another war as a grunt. Even then, he spoke little about all those years, most of which were at sea. He was sitting next to his friend on a Bofors 40 mm gun mount. He lost his friend on that gun mount one early morning. Once when I was in high school (1965) he removed a piece of that gun from his chest which had been there all those years.

After duty on three ships during the war, one of which was sunk giving him almost two days adrift in the Pacific, he was stationed in Corpus Christi, Texas. That is where I entered the picture. He stayed in touch with old shipmates who all died before him. I took him to the Chester Nimitz Museum in Fredericksburg, Texas once. There were ships lists where one could sign as having been crew. He spent about ten minutes by himself, and signed them. He spoke very little for the rest of the day. He was laid to rest at Fort Sam Houston National Cemetery in December 1996. He was a proud member of the “Greatest Generation” and did his part to give us this day.
He never went sailing with us because; as he said “I have done my time at sea”. Every time we step aboard, I remember that I am the son of a sailor. His spirit and his Blue Jackets Manual are aboard Why Knot.

Relavity

Ok, so we are underway and things are simple. Right. For one thing, life aboard is simple in that one has to deal with problems as they occur lest they mount up to the point the water is above the sole and the Fritoes are wet. With that in mind,we sat in the slip today in Coconut Grove watching speeding knuckleheads that have no concept of rules of navigation, it struck me that there are two distinct segments to our cruising. We won't discuss how a fly swatter improved our life immensely in this segment. What is apparent is that there is life at anchor and at sea and life at the dock. Sounds like a simpleton statement of which I am quite capable. I am referring to the relative comfort level of hanging on the hook off some key versus the solid feeling one gets at a slip. Now I know there are those before us who are purists and who would take issue with being at the dock, any dock. Apologies who might expect Why Knot to be a pure sea boat? We make no apologies for choosing to do a shore power event every few days. You see, that is what we expect of this cruise. Leave the long ocean crossings to others much younger and more adventurous. By being in a slip at Dinner Key this Saturday night of Memorial Day, we observed knuckleheads in abundance. The "no wake" buoys mean nothing here and are merely guide lines. Bear had to stand on my throat several times to keep me from wishing some such person the worst fate in the world by merely gesturing. What's with that?

This is a way cool place. We find here that food proportions are too large, that bikinis are too small (thats' right none can live up to my mate who I still see at 16), especially 80 year old dawgs, that the music is good (Cuban) and that this is the center of the nautical circus. Of this place, we find it as entertaining as Key West.

Aboard this boat at anchor, it is a 42 feet condo isolated in some really nice spots. We have a generator that would give us a/c and all the comforts of home. The only thing is that we must launch our dink to leave this water world at anchor. In the slip, any slip, we are tied up, with shore power and have no responsibilities for the boat. One might conclude that anchoring is a drag. Not so. It is the best place for a sea boat to be, other than at sea. There are those before us that would call us whimps for liking slips. We enjoy both and look forward to being at anchor in the Bahamas as soon as the season, and you know the season to which I refer, is over. Until then, we will combine anchor and slip to the best, for us, advantage. After all, who wants to kick one's self in the ---- if one does not need to. Hello Mister and Miss America and all the ships at sea. Fair winds fellow sailors. I just noticed that is 2130 and I am still up. I did not hear the change of watch bell and am late to the rack.

Memorial Weekend

The mooring field to our stern. This is the official field. Outside the breakwater, there is one larger than this one. The buoys are so close together that in a calm wind, when boats sort of wander about on their own program, we wonder if they can touch. There is a water taxi service and a pump-out boat that works the field. The pump-out boat is included in the fee to tie up.

First, last and always, we remember the reason for this weekend. We celebrate the lives of those not with us, both absent and at permanent rest.

Dinner Key Marina is huge. The marina has 587 slips and almost 300 mooring buoys. It is definitely a poplular spot being one of the not-so-expensive marinas, relatively speaking. It seems that it is little Cuba. Coconut Grove is way cool also. Safari is docked across the bay in South Beach. That is another world altogether with high speed cars, Speedos and roller blades. Can you imagine a 80 year old, skinny dude in speedos? Not a pretty sight. Over on this side of the bay, I have yet to see Speedos. I wonder is I need a pair just to fit in the area? NOT!

This marina displays a wide variety of boats and yachts. Many are foreign flagged boats. There are some real beauties, both motor and sail. Will attempt to get some shots the next few days. Hopefully, Bear will want to get off the boat today. There are many reasons to take a stroll around this place.

Last of the Keys

Rainbow at Pumpkin Key

What caused it

With our arrival at Dinner Key in Biscayne Bay, we have now reached another milestone. We are now at the end of the Keys. Last evening at Pumpkin Key was spectacular. After the exciting transit through Angelfish Creek Channel, we dropped the hook where we thought we would be in the lee of Pumpkin Key. Not so. Thunderstorms in the area caused brisk winds from all points of the compass. The holding was good so we were able to sleep. We were treated to some spectacular scenes at sunset. I know sunset photos are getting boreing but we can't help sharing some unusual shots.

Dinner Key is at Cocoanut Grove. Withing walking distance of the marina is some of the really landmark stuff of this town. This place is so un-Miami. Since Bear's back is still painful, we may spend some time here and attempt to see another doctor. We are told by some others that have had the same thing that it may take some time to get over it. Thing is that it is such a nusiance that she is angry about it now.

The sail across Biscayne Bay today provided some interesting moments. We passed a pair of Sea Two boats pulling a sunken, half destroyed boat. Seems that boat, according to some radio traffic between them and the US Coast Guard, hit a day mark at very high speed. In this area, the day marks for channels are not wooden post but steel wide flange I beams. That boat bent the day mark to the water. Then we heard a Mayday call from some fellow whose 42 feet fishing boat was taking on water. In about thirty minutes after the initial call she slid below the waves. He was saved by a good samaritan. Then the USCG started questioning the Sea Tow folks about pollution. Not only does the fellow lose his boat but may well see a hefty fine for any leakage. Just about half way across the Bay, a boat came by doing at least ninety knots. It was an offshore race boat working out on the bay.

We made the marina just as the rains started. It appears that the weather pattern for the next few days is for afternoon thunderstorms. Why Knot can use the rain on the upper rigging to get at the salt. A lasting memory will be the clarity of the water, even in Biscayne Bay. We could see the shadow of our boat and mast on the sea floor in 15 feet of water.

Angelfish Creek Channel

We left Tavernier Key this moring and headed north with no particular destination other than Key Biscayne Bay before Saturday. As usual, the winds were variable mostly from the direction we were traveling. Having spent several days in Hawk Channel, we decided to do the last part of the Keys in the ditch that goes through the Everglades, the ICW of the east coast. We chose Angelfish Creek Channel to make the move from "outside" to "inside". To say the least it was spectacular. The guides warn that leaving Hawk Channel to the Angelfish channel can be risky since there is a spot at the entrance to Angelfish that is both shallow and narrow. One must not enter that area if another boat is coming out. So, we timed it just right and started in with less than six inches under our keel. All was going well until some knucklehead in a high speed boat, who had obviously not read the same warnings, decided to pass us. Not that it was bad, but his wake removed that six inchs of water not once but twice and we touched bottom, but not hard. I could not get the Glock out quick enough to warn him off. After that minor incident with the bottom we were in one of the prettiest mangrove channels we have seen. The current was about three and a half knots opposing us so we were at a very high power setting making a whopping 3.5 knots against the current. During the time in the channel, we were passed by other knuckleheads at flank speed darting into the many side channels. Might I have hoped, quitely of course, that they miss the oppenings to those channels?

We were tired by the time we got through that channel and decided to anchor near Pumpkin Key. We were first there and now it is 1810 and we have two other boats here. Rain everywhere and we are in hopes that it washes some of the salt from the boat. This place puts us only 30 or so miles from the end of the Keys, Key Biscayne in the Miami area. We hope to take a slip in Coconut Grove at Dinner Key Marina for the Memorial Day weekend. We visited that place while guests of Safari a couple of years ago. It still has the charm of 1942. Thus, we reach another milestone in our cruise: We leave the Keys and start the Atlantic coast transit.

Tavernier

A shot this morning from the swim deck
Below: Tavernier Key

We left Marathon at 1030 yesterday bound for Indian Key, a short sail away. It is always a joy to leave port but at the same time, if one has stayed several days and met folks, a bit of regret. As is usually the case, we met folks from all over and we spent some time with Gary and Tess who plan to leave "in about a year". One can only guess that they will or will not. You see, they are now locals. Eveyone knows them and they know the town. Good luck in the planning process since when they do leave, their destination is the Philippines, their home.

Hawk Channel is a natural , reef protected channel in places several miles wide. It is not immuned from the Atlantic swell but is calmer than the open Atlantic. The Gulf Stream comes close at times and is part of the weather forecase. The Gulf Stream is a real river and has a very strong current running north. At times it is only a few miles off the reefs.

The channel is heavily traveled but being so wide, one hardly notices. The water is clear and only two dozen or so feet deep. As we sailed past Indian Key yesterday, we decided to continue for a bit longer. The coral in the channel was clearly visible and the winds were so light that we just motored along at a mild pace. There were all kinds of boats, mostly large trawlers and sport fishing boats. Of the few sailing vessels, we passed none heading toward Key West. All were motoring. It was a fine, but very hot day with rain showers around.

We reached Tavernier Key, just off Key Largo around 1810 and dropped the hook in 10 feet of water. The anchor was clearly visible and that is amazing. This area is about the finest diving and snorkeling area in the US and there were many dive boats anchored around the area. At around sunset, they all head back to their bases and that left us with Hawk Channel and our anchorage to ourselves, we thought. The moon was spectacular and the winds remained light. Just at sunset, a sailing vessel was making way, such that it was in the light air, toward an opening in the reef that separates Hawk from the Atlantic. They were setting up to "do the crossing" to the Bahamas. Being about 60 nautical miles or so, most sailors leave at sunset so as to arrive there after sunup. One does not want to approach those waters at night. Preferably, it is a good thing to do so as high sun so that you can see the coral and shallows. The scene of that boat, under full sail, against the full moon is one that words would not capture. Just let your imagination picture an 18th century sailing ship doing the same without all the lights of shore, silently looking for that opening to the North Atlantic.

Our anchorage is about a quarter mile off Tavernier thus we were not bugged last evening. That's a good thing since the mangroves are home to some knarley critters that love mamals. Though hot yesterdy, the night was just right for some serious snoozing. Today we will pick another anchorage and move toward Biscayne Bay.

Last Night In Port

For as many days as we have been here, we still have not seen all that is to see here. This is a small key and for the most part a very small fishing village. It is billed as a drinking village with a fishing problem. That is an understatement. This is in the epicenter of diving and fishing on the Keys. For us, as basically non fishing persons with minimal diving experience (I am a certified open water diver and Bear hates to dunk her face in salt water) we have yet to take part in that which is the main attraction to the mid Keys. Mostly due to Bear's back, we have yet to launch the dink. No big deal to us but we would take some hits from those before us who did all that. Bear is getting better and we will set sail tomorrow for points north.

As with all ports, except New Orleans, we will miss this place. We consider this place as one which we will never pass again. Of course, we hope that is not the case. We have met and enjoyed many in this port. There are those from up north and those from other countries. As with any port, there are those who claim much experience but that may have a flavor of sea shanty. One can tell those that have "been out there" and one tolerates the need of others to claim same.

We are encouraged by Bear's recovery and look forward to setting sail onward into the fog, so to speak. As we approach the season of bad storms, we hope to be able and lucky enough to be in port for those storms. If not, we will do whatever it takes to have the ship and the crew survive. After all, we vowed to sail until we cannot.

To friends ashore and those who have gone before, we will try not to embarrass ourselves beyond that which we have already done and not make any artificial reefs. May Why Knot tolerate our blundering and allow us to continue.

Finally, since we may not be connected to the internet on Monday, we want to acknowledge and remember Lt. Robert Ladensak and all those service members since who gave all for us. On Memorial Day and forever.

Ready to Sail

A week in a small town, any small town is a long time when one is not a local. We have been here almost a week yet there are still things to see and do, mostly see. For instance; we have noticed something about the continuous parade of dinks from the mooring field. There a lot of dogs living aboard. Those guys are the most patient creatures on the planet. Unlike humans, they are on a body schedule which depends on the dink and the other creature with thumbs to take them to shore. Having been here at the dock this long, we are starting to see dogs we recognize. They sit patiently up front in the dink and wait for that moment when the dock, hence the dirt, is close enough to jump upon. They do not immediately charge to land but wait for the creature with thumbs to grasp the leash and allow them to find the perfect spot. Maybe they get to run a bit but most do not have that chance. There is a white Lab on the dock opposite of us that is teathered to the boat, but stays on the dock all day long. Land is but a few yards away yet he can't get there until the creature with thumbs "uncleats" him from the boat. Dog's life is tough.

Today is our last full day tied up to this dock and it's power and water. Since Bear's back is much better, we will set sail tomorrow for some anchorage yet to be determined. There are many in this area and since the water here is so clear, we will not rush to leave it. After all, from here north, the waters start to change back to more like that in Port A.

Last evening, just before retireing, a fellow made a bee line to our boat from the dinghy dock. He walked up and said he did not mean to bother us but had to say hello. He was a long time resident of Port A many years ago and noticed our hailing port on the stern of WK. He spoke of restaurants long since gone or changed. We run into Texans everywhere how are eager to let us know that. The waitperson yesterday at lunch said she was from Odessa, as if we couldn't tell that from her speech. Said she was in the first freshman class a Permian. She also said that she did not miss the sand storms but did miss Odessa. She told us of the cold weather last winter that killed many manatee and other fish once so abundant here. She said that about the only good thing about the cold was that it offed many Iguanas which have taken over the area. Locals do not care much for them since they eat many of the plants that are so pretty here. She said that some of the Iguanas reached six feet or so in length. No offense Dan and Beery.

Another observation is that there are a dozen or so young children here. We are not sure if they are home schooled or attend the local facilities but they are present during the day and their parents land them ashore to play with each other. Their numbers are low so they don't split up according to age. They all play together and we guess that ages from about nine to say twelve. The mangroves are their playground. So goes life in the water world.

Looking out the portlight, we just noticed a large Boxer just convinced three creatures with thumbs to take him ashore. We leave this place tomorrow--- or not.

Reconaissance

Mooring field though the mangroves.

Sunday was a busy day in this harbor with all the traffic coming ashore for church, flee markets and general "get off the boat" activities. We decided to make a recon trip to Key Biscayne to check out an anchorage other cruisers have mentioned. That meant a long ride up the "Overseas Highway (Hwy 1) to the Miami area. It was worth the effort since we took our guide book on anchorages with us and located many from the highway. The Keys water is outstanding and on the sunny day it was a display of coral, seagrass and clear water. This is perhaps the best snorkeling water in the US.

We stopped in Key Largo for lunch at a place called Jimmy Johnson's Big Chill. Thinks I: bet JJ nevers saw this place. We sat dockside and when finished with lunch we took a shortcut out of the place past two guys having lunch. One of them was JJ himself. Easy to spot him with the hair thing. We don't get giddy over celebrity spottings but that was a surprise.

Key Biscayne is the northernmost of the Keys right in the Miami area. It is mostly a park and there were a few hundred thousand folks on the beaches there. Talk about a change from remote areas and quiet anchorages to hundreds of jet skis and fast movers of all types. Methinks our stay in that area, when it happens, will be short.

Meeting people is a main attraction to being in a marina though we definitely like anchoring out. We have met some characters like those under the Tree of Knowledge. One lady had a pair of short, stubby white dogs of some Scottish origin. They were developed to chase fox into the holes. As such, they have really fat tails that were designed to be used to pull the dog from the hole. That is how she loads the dogs in the dink. Really looks funny.

We will see if Bear's back is still stinging today and if so, we will see the doctor again. It is getting better but still hurts some when she walks. That was one reason we took the long ride yesterday since a car seat is comfortable for her. I never thought I would agree on that topic since I was a road warrior for 30 years but there are very few places to sit long spells aboard a sailing vessel, at least on our size.

Notwithstanding a round of doctor visits, we plan to set sail on Wedensday. The destination: out there.

A Wonderful Day

The "Tree of Knowledge". Notice that at 0845 there are already folks under the tree and some of them already have adult beverages working. Tables and chairs are permanent fixtures there.

Bear without pain.

Yesterday was the first day in quite a while that Bear was completely pain free. That is one perfect day, Bear in good shape and in the Keys aboard a sailboat. My definition of way great.

We took the rental car and did some exploring. We discovered quickly that there is one road in the Keys and that to go anywhere, these folks are never lost. Just go right or left and one will either run out of road in Key West or find CONUS (old military term for Continental US), or to put it another way, the rest of the US. So, we will plan land excursions to the right or East in this case as the Keys run East and West in this part. We plan to give the back thing several days to recover thus will spend about a week here.

I moseyed down the dock yesterday to the "Tree of Knowledge" as the locals have named it. For West Texans of our age, it was more like going through the door of the local domino parlor. You see, some of the locals gather under a large fig tree at the head of the harbor canal every day. While one is not discuouraged from boging down to the tree, one must understand that place is where those who have been here a while gather to discuss the interlopers. With no intention at all of intruding, we decided to rid our boat of the shoe basket that we have carried these many months. It so happens that the dumpster is next to the Tree. Rather than toss it, I offered the group gathered there the basket. They said that someone could use the basket and yes, leave it with them. Then one large fellow asked if I was aboard Why Knot. They are observant. Yup says I. They then started the initiation process of questions. Where you from? Where you goin'? Like that boat? Married? Kids? Dawgs? Where's Port Aransas? Oil spill get you yet? A few minutes later they said "Yer welcome to sit a spell". To which I said I had boat duties and moseyed on.

I got back to the boat and decided that there might be a wealth of local knowledge under that tree. I got a lawn chair and went back. There were about 10 people under that tree, mostly auld dawgs like me. They were talking about so and so being in jail and old what's his name having some life threatening disease and Mikey heading for Panama. One fellow has a terminal disease for which he will seek no further treatment. He was casually discussing how he wanted to be buried under the shade of that tree and how, after such burial, the harbor master could give him no further grief. One fellow has a bottle of Curzan rum to pour over the grave but casually asked the fellow if he could filter it through his on board system before "pouring it on the grave". The soon to be deceased fellow said of course as long as it was deposited up wind. I was introduced around just as I put my chair just outside the circle and sat down. Most, as mentioned, were my age but there were two females younger. They were of local boats and were treated as one of the boys. It was 1500 and some of the group had been through some rum by then.

The conversations under that tree were of the type from the domino halls of my childhood. Cars and plan gone by and of the future. It was Norman Rockwellian. As I sat there, folks would introduce me to newcommers to the circle. The figs from that tree were pelting us all. No one seemed to care except when a fig turned out to be a bird dropping. That basket stayed where I put it but someone in the crowd had it in mind.

Just as I was about to leave, having been in that area for about two hours, someone turned to me and said "when were you there"? Guess it shows. What unit? After that, it was different. Seems most of them were "there". I was the only one, having been there that was a grunt but it was unreal the change that took place in the demeanor of the folks under the tree. Mind you, they were still discussing life, death and world problems but the circle of chairs expanded to include mine. Now, thinking about that, it might have been like admitting to the old guys in a domino parlor in West Texas in the 50's that you had kin folks in town.

We met a couple from Tulsa that actually sailed their boat from there to here with the mast up. I did not think that possible but the captain swears he did it. The river system in Oklahoma is built with locks and navigible waters such that it is possible

I might just mosey back to the tree sometime while we are here. Who knows what pearls one might gather there.

Bye Bahia Honda Key

We decided that since Bear's back was still not up to par, we would put in at Marathon's Boot Key Marina for a few days and seek medical attention again. That entailed finding an available clinic and for that we also decided to rent a car and do some land based sight seeing and provisioning.

Rather than stopping in at an emergency room we found a public health clinic that takes walk-ins. After answering a five page questionnaire about STD's, sex habits and related young people history we were ushered to a room where we sat for just under three hours. Since we did not have public insurance, this was a cash deal but not as expensive as it would have been at an emergency room.
This did underscore the value of those traveler's air ambulance policies one can procure for overseas travel. Her back is vastly improved today and heck the meds might get her past this ordeal. Sailing can kick you in places you don't realize you have been kicked.

This is a way cool marina. Marathon, being one of the places a sailing vessel may pass from the ICW of the Western side of the Keys to the Atlantic side, it is a crossroad. The harbor may be a thousand acres in size with over 266 mooring buoys, limited anchorage and several marinas. We are staying in the City Marina which manages the mooring field and the limited dock space. In winter, it is very busy with this being a jumping off point to the Bahamas. The field is about half full now. The facilities are complete with the largest dinghy dock we have ever seen and there is yet another one at the end of the channel. Together, we believe they will dock several hundred dinks at the same time. The main building houses a day room with two large screen tv rooms, several wi-fi ports, large tables and a library where cruisers take and leave books. Those aboard that Bear has already read will be left at the library for others. There is even an organized cruisers net every morning at 0900. The net is the place to buy, sell, trade stuff, discuss weather, link up with other boars to "buddy boat" and other stuff related to boating without land transportation. We were here five minutes and some fellow offered us a car to shop. We have heard of the nets but this is the first one along the way. Good stuff.

There is a tizzy in the Keys. Seems some tar balls have washed ashore and that won't sit well on sugar sand beaches. Already, there are volunteer groups formed to stem or repair the spill as it gets to the Keys. Not sure this area has ever seen tar balls. At least it is not slick crude, at least not yet.

We will be here long enough to get our mail. Thanks to Paul, who is kind enough to forward it when we land somewhere long enough, we have still be able to stay in touch with land. This is, in no small way possible because of Paul's efforts. Thanks friend, we owe you big time.

It rained on us yesterday and will do so again today. That is a good thing as it helps wash the sea from the rigging. This week is Bear's week to relax and my week to clean ship. Think we will put the dink in the water and do some exploring. Getting it off the foredeck uncovers our sleeping quarters and forward head hatches-- sunlight below is a good thing.

Our latest equipment acquisition, and one every cruiser should have, is fly swatters. We had one fly aboard for three days, an elusive little green eyed quickie that finally died from old age. At least in some sun conditions they were green. It had the annoying habit of landing on my ear. We hope it did not leave a million or so little legacies aboard. We are now armed which is fair warning to others wanting to sign on.

Layday in Bahia Honda Key

Last evening at anchor here was outstanding. By sundown, the beach was clear and there were four boats at anchor. By sunrise we were alone here. All other boats departed before we looked out. Fishing is a big thing between the bridges and that goes on night and day. I decided to use the hooka air system we brought aboard so that we did not have scuba tanks and limited air available. It worked as advertized and makes unlimited air available. During the first dive with it, I learned the reason for the knocking at low speed. I thought it might be something loose in one of the lockers that tunes in on the engine harmonics. Not so. It is the pesky Autoprop, a feathering prop that has been a pain. Many swear by Autoprop and it is very efficient. For some reason, ours keeps failing. Seals fail and seawater destroys the internal bearings, always on the same blade. We have had it factory repaired three times at great expense and I am now done with it. I changed back to the original "mouse ear" prop in the water. Thank goodness the water is so clear because I dropped a wrench but saw it all the way to the bottom. Anyway, that was the excitement for the day. We will spend another night here then move on to Marathon.

Bear's back is still kicking up a bit. It will take some time to recover but if it does not ease a bit more today, we will seek another solution in Marathon. Methinks a day of horizontal hard surface per the doctor will help and so far she has logged about six and one half hours today. No worries mate.

Round the corner

Sticking with our plan to be where we are going to be by three, we set sail (that's right set sail) form Key West this morning at 0815 bound for Marathon, Fl. About three hours into the only great sail we have had so far, we decided to take the advice of Safari and stop in Bahia Honda Key. A quick look at the charts said that there were gremlins on the approach but, as it turned out, there were none. We had the best sail today in a long time. At times we hit at least mach .000001 or more precisely 8.1 kts. Not fibbing here since until the wind died, we were beating a Nordhaven trawler. This is a real treat. It is a State Park between bridges on the Keys highway. The holding is good and the water is awesome. We can see our anchor 13 feet down. Gee, I hope it rolls over and digs in. This is one of the stops folks before us told us about. We may stay yet another night. The bars are only three tonight so I will keep this one short.

Rigged and Ready

This is our last night in Key West. We have had a butt kicking time here and perhaps tonight was one of the top nights here. We stopped by Schooner Warf for dinner, heard a jazz band and they mentioned a web cam. We texted some whom we knew would be near a computer and let them know we were making faces into that cam. They saw us and we talked whilst doing that. How 21 st century is that?

We have been here and done this. I spent most of the day putting things right for our milestone turn of the corner into the Atlantic coast. Tomorrow we sail for New Found Harbor or perhaps Marathon Key. We do not plan to rush it to Miami but hope to visit with Safari when they return. As I was working on a pesky dinghy air leak, someone yelled Why Knot. It was the folks on Rumba Line that we met in Port Saint Joe. We have shawdowed each other for several weeks now. It turns out that they have been in the anchorage for a few days. They will not be heading up the coast as we, but rather they will be heading for points south, say about 90 miles south. Can you say old cars and harbors stuck in the 50's?

Ok, now for the big news of the day: we were walking back to the boat just before sunset. We saw several folks looking over the rail into the water. It turned out to be three, countem, three large Manatee. These are the first we have seen, ever. Wow, not sure what their purpose in life is but they resemble elongate potatoes or perhaps fat globs. In their own way, they are sort of cute in a dumplin sort of way. So, we now know that they do exist and it is not merely a traffic control scheme by Florida. To the point, one cutie had several prop marks on its back. Bet that hurt, but they looked healed. We will definitely not try to avoid them and leave them alone

Tomorrow, we sail. We might well be in a place with no 3G bars so posting might not happen for a day or so. Until then, we will try not to make any artifical reefs.

Our last Friday night in KW (for a while)

It is 2245 hours and Bear has been asleep for a while. I am so thankful that she is recovering from the back thing. By now, I am starting to sound like a commercial for Key West. Really, everyone should visit this place before leaving the planet. Tonight is the first time since we arrived here that I have stayed up this late. We stayed aboard most of the day and I used the time to start the weather checks (dang, Texas is getting hammered). Tonight, even late in the evening, dinks are transiting to and from the mooring/anchorage field. The sights and sound are wonderful, except for the boat about three slips away that has a bad a/c pump. It is really rare that motor vessels (those without sails) will acknowledge we "blow boaters". Tonight, whilst delivering trash to the can at the end of the dock, someone said "goodnight sailor". Sorta touches my soul. Tonight marks a milestone in our quest for that which we may no be able to do much longer (years). This is part of life's cruise with Bear which we have dreamed of for so long. It is the absolute best French fries and gravy we can have (Merkelites know what that means).

We saw a sailing ship (that's right, a ship meaning that she could land a boat on her deck) leave harbor today. The crew was chanting sea songs as they hoisted sail the hard way- no winches (or wenches) to a sea song. One, two, three and heave ho. She is magnificent and she left harbor the right way. Fair winds.

Tomorrow is the day when we start monitoring the weather and planning the next passage. Mind you, said passage will be short and to a protected anchorage. We are rested and ready to do some anchoring behind some key with other sail boats. Why Knot has not tugged at the dock lines until today. Methinks she is giving us a chance to let Bear fully recover. Funny how she knows when that is important to the crew. She is like a puppy, as mentioned earlier referring to my A.D.D. and she lets us know that it is time to go.

During our stay, which was admittedly too long, we saw old friends, repaired ship and became tourists. How bad is that? Soon, we will be making our way north toward Safari, our friends from Port A and a rendezvous with my old Commanding Officer from Vietnam in Jacksonville. That is a meeting we never thought possible some 38 years ago in a bunker in Fire Base Bastogne, Vietnam, the Republic Of.

Spc, Brown, of the 101st died yesterday in Afghanistan. As always, we toast those who gave it all and to those young lions still on watch. Sleep tight for they are on duty.