Last change I hope

WE have moved to a sail friendly blog:  sailblogs.com/member/svwhyknot

Parallel Universe

We will be switching to a new blog site when we resume the cruise.  Please make a note of the new address:

http://www.sailblogs.com/member/bearnbligh/

The new site is set up for sailing type blogs and much friendlier for the publisher.  It will have a map that shows progress and some other really good features.  Let me know what you think

Jake

It is funny what we have found as entertainment since being on land.  Started to say since being home but then again, we are at home on land and on Why Knot.  As mentioned earlier, we started to empty an old freezer that has been in constant duty for over 28 years in our dungeon.  Said freezer had an ice berg about six inches deep in the bottom into which food has been entombed for close to the full time. Old bread, candy bars, ice cream and at least some of every soup or stew we have made since moving the thing there.  We built the house around it thus cannot get it out.  The decision was to empty it and use it as a trunk.  We have now done that but in the process we tossed the food "down the hill" so the critters could make use of it.  We have a very fine specimen of a gray fox that has dined for almost two months on the "booty".  Guess what folks, we are done with the project and have only a few more items from the fridge, to include left overs from Thanksgiving, for old Jake to enjoy.  I know, I know, it is not a good thing to thus train wild life but old Jake has enjoyed it as much as we have enjoyed spying on him after dark as he dines.  All good things come to an end and he is really going to miss the crew of Why Knot.  Starting about Saturday, next, the neighborhood punt dogs and cats better look out.  Then again, the danger might not be so bad as Jake prefers the flavor of soy sauce and a pinch of wasabe.   Methinks we might just leave a bowl of the stuff out there to enhance the taste of whatever rodentia or  domestic house pet he chooses in the near future.  After that old Jake is on his own.  We simply have to get back aboard to help Bligh lose the 33 pounds gained during this shore liberty.  Be well fellow scurvs and have one great Thanksgiving.  Don't forget that this and all previous such holidays are brought to you courtesy of some fine young lions who are willing to do harm on your behalf at possibly the loss of all their future holidays.  May God wrap his grace and care around them.  We'll be back on the flip side. 

Close, really close

Nothing like a very quiet Sunday morning watching "A River Runs Though It" to inspire one's thoughts about what we are about to resume.  By this time next week, we will most likely be on our way back to Why Knot.  We will encounter an entirely different feeling this time since we left.  The southern migration is in full swing as evidenced by the dock cam at Charleston.  I look at it every day, half expecting WK to be crushed between two "ships" but it has not happened.  Some days, the dock is completely full and others almost empty.  This is due to the transient traffic seeking warmer, clearer water south.  The anchorage across from the dock has been busy and at times full.  I would bet it would accommodate a hundred boats easily. 

The go box is ready and all that is left is to load it into the blue toad rental car we have.  Enterprise must have us on some good customer list somewhere as we have, withing the last 10 months rented over 100 days.  Soon that will end and we are ready to get away from tourism ashore, except by dinghy.  The Bear's back thing has prevented us from using the dinghy since leaving the Keys.  We have missed much along the waterway in terms of gunk holing (exploring remote places).  That will change although we  plan to dodge some of the skinny water of the AICW with offshore work.  We are in the state of mind now just to enjoy Thanksgiving with family and a few friends then leave the house as it should have been the first time.  That 35 year old freezer in the dungeon that held an ice berg time capsule will now function as a trunk to hold family stuff.  That pile of brush below the old BBQ deck is now gone as is the old pit.  The air conditioner has been serviced and will be set at 50 degrees to keep the house from freezing should it come to that. 

As we did in January of this year, we will forgo long showers, large fridge, big tv and big spaces to once again live the dream.  We will see some ports of the past and some new ones.  We hope to skip some such as the back water marina in Pensacola where we had to intentionally walk out of sync lest we wobble the dock.  I wonder if the horse flies are still in the marshes of Georgia?  Our time here has been wonderful but we have the call of the sea yet to fulfill.  That window, thought not yet closed, is starting to close and we have much to do before we must tie her up one last time.  Given the volume of pictures we took the first 9 months, I am not sure the old hard drive will keep up.  Just how many beautiful sunsets, or rolly nights at anchor can one remember?  We'll let you know.  Look out troll, it's time to step over dead center.  Very Happy Thanksgiving everyone.

Stuff that changes during absence

Twelve days more or less until we point WK's bow to sea.  It depends on what we find when we get aboard again.  Stuff does change.  For instance, we found the wild life really closed in around our house when we left last time.  We now have a really fine looking pair of fox that enjoy leftovers.  Jake is the one that comes closest and he is the first gray fox we have seen here.  His friend stays farther in the woods.  Jake has made it a habit of checking the place where we dump scraps every night.  By morning, the stuff to the  crumb is gone, except the pinto beans.  Methinks we might have made them too spicy for his tastes.  It is entertaining to watch him on the night scope.  We have a very nice buck with an excellent rack also roaming the yard.  The other day might have ended differently if I continued walking his direction. He was not giving up ground.  I thought it best to avert the joust given the state of my running abilities these days.  Then the other night we had a visitor that I did not recognize.  It was low and slinky and black about two feet long.  I don't have any idea what it was other than some one's ferret. The point is that during the time we were gone, wildlife moved in.  I sure hope the same is not true for Why Knot.  We should have left a fumigator aboard in our absence.  We are still looking for one for our resident troll. 

We have been in touch with SV Breezin' currently underway to Florida.  They spent last evening in Offatts Bayou after a 65 mile day in one of the busiest parts of the ICW (south of Galveston).  He encountered 35 knot winds on the nose and lots of tows.  It brought back memories as we hit similar conditions in that stretch of the ICW.  Rain, 50 degrees and high winds make for miserable days underway.  Breezin is about to enter a very boring part of the ICW east of Galveston where the tallest things one sees are cows and High Island.  That island is an ancient salt dome in the middle of the low country.  Otherwise, it is like walking from Van Horn to Sonora- straight and nothing to see.  This time of the year the fronts are frequent and can be nasty.  It is not necessarily a good time to "do the GIWW ditch".  Though we passed that way in early February, the nights are about the same lately.  It is difficult to stay warm when there is a fine 45 degree mist in the breeze.  Then again, as we found, a good double wowzer day happens every now and then so one can warm up.  Breezin is motivated by the destination of St. Petersburg where such days are common. 

We went on line today as we do every day to look at WK on the dock cam.  MV Bacalao is gone.  We had the pleasure of meeting and getting to know the captain of her and it is a bit of sadness to see her leave.  That is the way it goes and we hope to see Bacalao again somewhere.  Along the way, we have met several crews and look forward to seeing them again somewhere. 

Traditions of the sea

It is less than three weeks until Bear and I climb back aboard Why Knot and resume the dream.  Having had the time at home to actually prepare the house for extended absence, we recognize some things were overlooked last time we left.  The yard was nicely mowed when we returned thanks to our San Antonio son and family but the lower yard was cluttered with debris from the old swing and some rather large woody weeds.  Thus, I have spent time outside doing the Paul Bunyan thing (without the Blue Ox of course) whilst Bear has been engaged in her part of the upcoming cruise prep.  The go box is growing and we need to leave before the rental car we have is too small to carry the junk. 

A news item this morning caught my attention and I did a bit of internetting to learn more.  The event was the commissioning of a Navy War Ship, the USS Jason Dunham.   More on that later.  The Navy still observes a quaint but time honored tradition in building ships which is to put items under the base of the mast during construction.  This tradition dates back to the Greeks and Romans.  As legend has it, it is tied to the tradition of placing coins on the mouths of deceased so as to ensure payment to the entity Charon for the ferry ride across the River Styx to the afterlife.  Ships sent to battle were given coins for each crew for the same purpose and said coins were placed under the mast at the time they were "stepped" (installed).  Today said items are for marking ship's birth and to seek safe passage for the crew. 

So, where is this going?  DDG-109, the USS Jason Dunham has a box at the base of the mast for items commemorating Corporal Jason Dunham's act of unbelievable heroism.  He did the unthinkable and gave his life to save his rifle squad in Iraq.  Basically, he planted his helmet and himself over a grenade.  For this his family accepted the Medal of Honor and the US Navy named the ship.  It was commissioned today.  In the mast box were many items including a number of coins signifying dates of importance and the sum of which equals the ship's hull number.  Other items included his dog tags, a piece of his  Kevlar helmet and the Guidon of  Kilo Company, 3rd Battalion, 7th Marines.  For more on this you can whip by the web site:  http://www.jason-dunham.navy.mil/default.aspx . This site will give details of each item. 

Back to the world of the protected- it is cold here today and that hurts, literally.  Springing out of the rack is no longer an option.  Instead, we go through what is similar to a start up procedure. Boy are we looking forward to sailing south to clearer water and warmer days.  I wonder if Why Knot has a coin at her mast base?  If not we will figure a way to make it happen-  or not.  Be well, ya'll.  Fair winds, SV Breezin' now underway in the ICW to Florida.

Darkness and Dreams

Bear will be the first to point out that I am a gadget freak.  We have redundant systems for charts both electronic and paper and most every other system on the boat is backed up with parts or redundant systems.  In a sense we are a bit beyond the Joshua Slocum method of cruising but that it not the worst thing in the 21st century.  We are not in to Facebook or Twittering as we will never be a Tweeple.  Our younger family uses those medium to stay in touch and the older members of our family barely know that computers are everywhere. 

We have had a wonderful visit to the Hill Country to see family and friends and even attend a 60's decade high school reunion.  Now, we are in the prep mode to return to Why Knot and take her to sea (Murdock) once again.  This time we head south for a bit and over familiar ground (sort of).  We have a hull cleaning dive scheduled and our dock rent is done at the end of November.  If we are lucky, the tax man will not have found WK and levied a property tax upon her in our absence.  South Carolina will do so if one stays more than six months in their water in a calendar year.  By the time we get back aboard, we will be over that limit.  Can't they see the hailing port of Port Aransas, Texas?  Does it matter? 

As Wurstfest ended today in New Braunfels, we were disciplined to attend only once during the 10 day event.  One can only yell so long over a Wursthalle bench.  After a wonderful day yesterday listening to a three string ensemble playing Texas music along the Guadalupe and then dinner with the extended crew of Why Knot in a double wowzer evening, we are getting ready to head back to the water world.  I acquired another gadget from American Express using some of the 30 years worth of points we had.  I got a night vision scope.  I remember the starlight scopes we had in the Nam and this thing is way better, lighter and easier to use.  Since being home we have adopted two fox that are not the least concerned with our presence.  They like the stuff we are tossing from our dungeon freezer that has been in the ice berg for over 20 years.  We throw chili, sausage and tortillas out there for them and they dine within 20 yards of our house.  Tonight, I trained the night vision device on them and we both were entertained.  Boy, that brings back memories of very dark nights so long ago. 

We have been ashore long enough to lose sea legs and start thinking about socks.  Fortunately, I have misplaced the directions on how to wear them.   Once aboard again, we plan to take WK offshore but not until we have some time aboard to check systems and get motion back in our persona.  I did not say motion was rhythm.  We have none, having grown up in an area that frowned on dancing.  It will be cold when we are aboard again.  Perhaps it won't be as cold as the first few weeks of our cruise back in January of this year.  There will be destinations south of our present location that will offer clear water and warm nights.  We miss the crystal clear water of the Keys.  This time we are taking spear guns and fishing gear.  Now, if we can only remember which fish cause tummy aches and which we can't murder we might be ok- or not.

Status Report

Rumor has it that we, especially Bear, are not fit for the cruise we plan to continue.  Not so. We would not continue if we were the least bit unable to perform the duties aboard Why Knot.  While Bear is moving slowly, it must be realized that she had a back surgery from which she is making a remarkable consistent recovery.  The idea in coming home was to see  family and friends and we chose to make the visit about two months long to give both of us time to get to the point physically where we can continue.  It will take many months for the crew to achieve pre-cruise conditioning.  One of the real benefits to "no plan, no schedule and no destination" is that we can take it easy and still live the dream.  So, to those with concerns, thank you for the thoughts but we can sit aboard as easily as at home.  We may not cover 70 miles a day but that is no big deal. 

S-25 and Counting

Porthole shot of sunset on Lydia Ann Channel of the lighthouse at Port Aransas

Things are going slowly but improving in the crew healing process.  It appears that the six months inactive has cost Bear a great deal in stamina and range of motion but we are happy that she improves daily and is ready to get underway again.  As the season changes and the concerns over hurricane season abate somewhat (Hurricane Tomas is still stinging the islands) we are looking forward to Thanksgiving with family here in the Hill Country.  Tomas is as of this writing targeting Haiti, a country that has yet to even start to recover from the earthquakes.  I heard today that over a million persons are still living in tents and under tarps and that hurricane will not be welcome.  Our thoughts are always for those in the "kill zone" of storms but especially for those with no place to go. 

The season has gone from balmy and almost boringly predictable to the pattern of weekly frontal passages. This is the time of the year when sailors start to monitor the weather for that perfect time to cross the Gulf or some other body of water on the heels of a frontal passage.  That is so for our friend on Breezin' who hopes to cross the Gulf in a few days.  He plans to do it alone and with limited early warning devices aboard except his own observations.  A fast crossing is a relative thing and can be as short as five days on a fast boat.  Breezin is not among the fastest thus it will take a few days longer.  The way it works for "single handers" is simple but unbelievably strenuous.  He will remain at the helm most of the time and grab a few winks whenever the horizon is clear.  Usually, single handers rely on a clock to awake them every 20 minutes during sleep periods.  Thus, the entire passage will be marked by 20 minute time blocks.  The longer it goes, the more it becomes the norm but the first few days cannot be fun.  One must rely on the bounty of the experience to stay focused and safe.  The captain of Breezin is a strong fellow with quite a few sea miles and he should do quite well.  We know of others who have crossed the Atlantic and even the Pacific alone.  What manner of men are these?  Slocum did it alone around the world in the late 1800's.  Certainly we wish Breezin fair winds and following seas.  Keep the SPAM in dry bilges. 

We look at Why Knot every day at the dock on the dock camera.  She sits patiently at Charleston waiting for us to return.  I think about the crud which must be now growing on the water line and the fact that we will get someone to dive the boat before we depart that place.   I would do it but old bones in cold water don't make for a meticulously cleaning.  Shivering often gives way to spotty results and perhaps to way too much rotten grapes thereafter.  We have the charts and the gear to open many alternatives not the least of which is to spend some time in the Keys.  Gee, what a decision that would be.  I cannot wait to show Bear some of the great places we passed when finally stopped to get some repair work on spines.  For the next three weeks we keep looking at the pictures we took along the way.  To our friends back home and those in our old port, we very much got recharged by seeing you again and hope to do so at least a few more times before we get back to the liquid world.  We have the great expectation of seeing some who have indicated that soon they may be joining us underway.  To the crew of CJ now aboard their new boat, the Sand Piper, we hope we run across you and your ice maker "out there".  To Breezin, we hope you will join us.  And to the Huey driver, we can only say: get thee east.  See if you can keep that beautiful brightwork underway. 

If you read this today- we hope you voted.  If not, shame on yer junky butt.

Good Nights Sleep

Go with me on this.   Any resemblance between this story and real facts are purely incidental.  It has been a great day at sea.  We left Miami early morning aboard a wonderfully equipped boat and are looking forward to sun downers and a good nights sleep. We pull into a very nice, albeit small anchorage. Locals are on shore with runabouts pulled on the beach.  Everyone is frolicking in the gentle surf. It is late afternoon and we decide to don mask and fins and check the anchor only eight feet below in crystal clear water.  A bright red star fish is near the anchor so it is easy to spot.  We have more than enough rode (chain) out to assure a good "set" yet it appears the "hook" is only partially buried it he coral sand.  Without getting the scuba gear out, we are limited in the effort to dig a hole for it to the thirty seconds or more that we can hold our breath.  Being lazy, we decide to forgo the tanks and live with the anchor as it sets.  Soon, the sun is below the yard and we are, as they say, splicing the main brace with guests.  The locals leave the anchorage and we have it to ourselves.  Darn lucky we think.  What a place.  The burgers were outstanding and the evening continues until someone yawns.  Then the contagious nature of that event takes the entire crew into those last glimpses of the dark shore line and that last sip in the glass.  Slowly, the crew head for horizontal surfaces thankful for the day and the safe passage.  We are confident of waking up where we started before dark.   There is no sitting in the dark below listening to the sea or the boat.  We are tired.  Sleep comes fast and deep.  How sweet it is.

It seems like only a few minutes when an unusual movement to the boat wakes the crew.  This movement is not just a roll or a pitch, it also includes a lunge of the type that says we are "making way".  But wait, we have an anchor down, or do we?  This is when, like the kicking of the squad bay trash can at 0300 by the drill sergeant, one can go from deep sleep to vertical sprint in less than a heartbeat.  Mind yer noggin you say as you head for the companionway at mach .000000001 to see "what the heck".  There is a driving rain pelting the deck.  Once topside, it is pitch black.  So much for the plan.  Looking at the gps, you notice that we have a straight track drifting to the only boat busting bolder in the entire anchorage.  But before we hit that rock, we will encounter a lovely million dollar yacht that is not moving, that is except the owner with the Q beam attempting to burn our retinas out of existence.  Now, how the hell am I going to see anything except for that white ball of light permanently etched in my vision?  Oh yes, that light also comes with some faint suggestion of my having questionable parentage.  Not to worry, we have a second anchor which, if deployed in the next 15 seconds will save the day.  Why the heck did I use all that line to secure it to the rail?  Ah, but we have a knife.  Quick work and the line is gone, the anchor is attached to the rode and overboard.  Let's see if it sets in time for us to stop before we sink the Queen Mary.  Just then it sets and the boat stops on a dime.  Both chain and rode are piano wire tight and holding.  The dude with the hand held sun mutters something about our IQ and goes below.  He cannot help it, he is French. 

Having narrowly averted an international incident at sea, one notices it is 0300.  For now the boat is stable and the rain has stopped.  Wait, it is darn cold and not only am I wet but also sitting in the cockpit in my underwear.  No wonder the fellow turned off the light.  Too wired for the moment, the best thing to do is to grab a towel and sit there for a bit. It is too early to have adult beverages and not late enough to make coffee. After all, it is 0303.  Staring toward the east, the next three hours pass slowly as one contemplates that darn anchor.  The Admiral comes topside at around 0900 with that "what a restful night it was" look on her face.  Gee honey, when did  you get up?  Why are you sitting there in wet underwear?  What are we gonna do today?

Log entry:  Stardate 111111, Caribbean Sea-  note to self-  discard that dufus anchor and get something that will hold. 

Enter Rocna, a well known anchor with supposedly great holding. It comes with a warning that when retrieved, it comes up with really foul bottom stuff stuck to it.  There are trade offs and a bucket brigade is needed to keep that stuff out of the anchor locker, but hey, one may be able to sleep------that is except for concern over the boat upwind some dark and stormy night.  Where do we keep out Q beam?

Countdown and other stuff

Give or take it is about 35 days until we climb back aboard WK.  Bear and I are both recovering well and Bear is getting some formal exercise to get those mussels back into cruising shape.  We have been off the boat for 21 days and contrary to what I thought, we have been busy and really making the most of our time ashore.  We have procured charts and other items that would have been much harder without having a stable address and a car.  As it turned out, we needed to do much more to the house than we did to make it ready for absence although the scorpions were sort of a burglar deterrent.  That tree spider that had such a nice web over our dining room table was yet another indication that our bug zone wasn't.

As mentioned, we have acquired most if not all the charts and guides we need, or think we need.  As to the fishing thing, the Bahamian guide offered a simple truth:  big lures equals big fish, and little lures equals little fish.  Obviously, it did not consider the curse Neptune put on us when we murdered the tarpon accidentally. 

We have a few spare parts to acquire and some things left for the house and the list grows daily.  Funny how the list never ends.  What part will fail when least expected is a simple question.  The answer is also simple.  It will fail when the replacement is least available.  So, it is back to the guessing game.  We have decided to leave the 150 headsail in the barn and continue with the 110. We have a spinnaker aboard for those light days.  If we add the big headsail, no one, but no one can possibly get into the aft cabin. 

Things we have resolved:
Provision at the last possible moment with foods having the longest "best used by" date.  That means not taking advantage of those great HEB sales here in New Braunfels.  You know they ones: "priced for quick sale".  We will leave the house with very few provisions save that freezer in the dungeon that has a permafrost layer below which we have no clue what foods exist.  We will make this place toxic to man, beast and bug when we leave and the burglar alarm will be operational.  And the list goes on.

The launch clock is ticking.  Bear and I are looking forward to getting underway.

Coffee in the Fog

Whilst sitting on the deck at home early this morning, the fog is so thick that one can barely see the ground.  Fog on land and that on the sea allows one to dream with eyes open. I do not hear fog horns or sea buoy bells but maybe I can conjure up that sound if I have enough coffee.  Our deck is twenty or so feet from the ground thus it is possible to lose sight of the trees close by and put the dream machine in motion and envision the same fog surrounding Why Knot at some anchorage.  Oops, back to reality, a police sirene just sounded in the distance.

We just received a box of charts and cruising guides for the Bahamas.  Haven't given much thought to visiting there when we were aboard as it was to be at least three months before actually heading that way.  By the time we get back, two of those will be gone.  Spreading the chart out on kitchen table, one can now get some idea of those places friends and fellow cruisers have mentioned as "not to be missed".  Just as we were dreaming of taking the eastern  turn at Galveston, the southern turn at Pensacola, the northern turn at Key West, we were not thinking of the southern turn to mid Florida then the eastern turn to the Bahamas from Charleston just yet.    While we did not make the Chesapeake this time, we will soon be joining those who did at some port waiting for the window to cross the green monster.  Those on trawlers and motor yachts without stabilizers usually have a harder time getting the crew, usually the Admiral and her pet, to sign on for a crossing in marginal weather due to rolling decks.  We have some gear to reduce roll such as mainsail and keel thus may be able to make it in more marginal weather.  We have crossed the "Stream" twice on Safari.  Both times, it was no big deal since the winds and seas were down.  Then again, that was July.  January may be different. 

The visit home has been good.  We are slowly preparing the house for an extended absence.  We attended a  '60 high school class reunion this past weekend in a place polar opposite from the sea, Merkel, Texas.  It was way good to see old classmates and some we have not seen for over 50 years.  It was an elderly crowd standing around trying to remember names.  We also visited with the crew of Liberty Call, now land based in Fredericksburg, Tx.  Now, it is back to prepping for the return to WK and getting back underway on the dream. 

Refit

As mentioned, we are here in the Hill Country until after Thanksgiving and this allows us to make some revisions to that which we feel we need aboard. We brought much gear home but we are not sure we can fit some stuff in the little rental car we have going back.  For instance, a fishing rod.  Yup, we have cruised now for over nine months and have yet to wet a line.  We have an old rod and reel my Dad gave me 50 years ago and yet we still find it easier to just order the fisherman's platter when on land and do without on the boat.  That is until now.  Having spent several decades meandering along the shore and sailing the Gulf waters, we have fished little.  Part of that is due to the fact that as a kid, my parents chose to feed me fish every day practically.  It took almost 20 years after the fact before I would eat seafood again. 

Bear and I are starting to gather up the guides and charts for the part of the cruise to the Bahamas and they mention that fish is way more plentiful than any other type of critter, other than perhaps bugs.  So, I guess we will get back into murdering sea creatures if Neptune will grant me a reprieve from the curse placed on us when we accidentally caught a Tarpon just off the jetties at Port A.  Said Tarpon had no chance since we caught him (or her) on a 80 pound test line tied to a cleat on the boat.  Since then, it has been futile to fish.  Gee, I wonder what we need to do to get the curse lifted.  Dang sure hate to waste that really cool bottle of rum but it may be necessary.  (Non sailors take note that Neptune takes kindly to offerings of good rum simply poured over the side with great reverence and humility).  Still debating that one aboard WK.

More spare parts, water filters and other stuff necessary to be somewhat self-sufficient in remote areas are being procured during this shore leave.  Stuff like spare fuel injectors are expensive but may well save a great deal of expense.  Duties, freight and actual cost of such stuff in the islands is almost prohibitive.  Some crews limp back to the states to avoid these things.  Can you imagine the cost of 500 pounds of batteries shipped to some remote island?  Little things like medicines must be acquired for the length of the cruise.  Try getting your saw bones to write a scrip for a years worth of certain of drugs.  It is like this doc, we need to forget the time limits and fill six increments of this controlled substance all at once.  Yeah, right!

To those who plan to be away from medical assistance for a bit, we have run across a really great bandage.  It is waterproof and does not stick.  Google 3M Tegaderm + Pad.   Otherwise, as mentioned in an earlier blog, in a pinch, duct tape will do the same trick.  The difference other than cost is that with the former, you keep yer fur.  With the latter, ye lose it.    Later!

Preview



Looking ahead along the way

 When Bear and I began our little adventure we knew we would be making memories for use later in life, perhaps for those times when we are destined to make our last port in life's voyage.  We did not expect those memories to be particularly spectacular, nor of interest to anyone other than ourselves.  After just nine months, we have a cache of memories that is certainly a good start.  There are those that cause nightmares and those that would embarrass most folks.  We have some that could be the stuff of travel magazines and some that could be discarded were it not for the fact that they are chiseled into our hard drive. Altogether they make up a pretty good start on the stuff that we might remember when we grow up. 

Our "Ships Log" is mostly about geography and mechanics but this blog is about perceptions and ports, about impressions of people along the way and about mistakes and the old learning curve.  It is about how one can find pleasure living in a space smaller than our bedroom back home.  It is about the dance we do as we pass each other in tight places aboard and how we learned to do that without stepping on toes and dropping stuff.  It is about sleeping head to toe in a berth smaller than a single bed and how to dodge a kick in the face while fully unconscious asleep-- or not.  It is about that darn hatch handle that has always been there yet is forgotten until it buries that little button on top of a cap in the top of my head.  In my case, it is about learning patience and overcomming my ADHD, which I think I have done.  It is about wondering where the other boat is headed and where they have been and the wonder of how folks that old are still doing it.  I am sure others think of us that way since we see very few youngsters "out there".  This is like a visit to a wildlife park that is infinitely long and only accessible by boat. 

We have done a fair amount of land exploration and are constantly amazed at the demarcation between normal land life and the other dimension:  the water world.  Those who fish, ski or go to the beach are usually home after dark and they really miss one of the true rewards.  Like staying "at the coast" on Sunday, one sees the visitors disappear.  One is treated to something the locals have long forgotten and those who went home to "get ready for work on Monday" will not enjoy.  It is having the water world to yourself.  For the moment it is yours and all that it holds is displayed just for you.  Along the way, we have anchored in places where we did not encounter another human for hours.  It is a pleasure to listen to nature without motors.  It has been so completely enjoyable that we have yet to listen to the books on tape or the music we brought aboard for more than a few minutes total.  The sound of silence is truly golden. 

Now that we are in the Hill Country for a few weeks, I catch myself previewing those memories, sort of trying them on for size to see if they will work when we can no longer go to sea.  Methinks we are doing just fine filling the memory box.  Hopefully, the box will continue to grow now that our visits to the spine guys are done.  Heck, I was aboard last night for a couple of hours.  I would bet Bear was too.

Stuff

Not sure how it works but in the short time we have been here, Bear got a jury summons.  Did someone tell Comal county we were back?  Ok, can one get a deferment from said duty if one explains to the court, most of whom may never have been out of the county, that we are not planing to be here long enough for Bear to do the duty?  It might go something like this:  You see Judge, we are not up to the civic duty thing because we be planning to have fruity libations with little umbrellas on some Caribbean island for the unforeseeable future.  Might you just forget this whole jury thing and excuse us for oh say----- forever?  Wadda say old dude?  Let you know how that works after the 11th. 

This visit has one really cool aspect other than for our Texas soul.  I am having the pleasure of discarding company files and recovering a room that was once the galactic nerve center of CST Sales.  Unlike walking away from a real job with the old gold watch and a really cool cake, this is a celebration only I can enjoy.  There is no successor to help me take my stuff to the car and wish me well.   Now if I can only get all those trade magazines to unsubscribe me.  Don't they know it is difficult to download their junk at some remote anchorage?

Taken a "while" back

Now I must admit to those who have not lived a cruising life that life aboard can be way more work.  It is not all beautiful sundowns with a perky glass of rotten grapes and a life mate to enjoy it.  Those who have stopped by this blog from time to time have read about broken heads (toilets), broken masts, lost stuff and cold watches at the helm.  Life on land has some really obvious advantages  but it cannot, at least for now, match a quiet anchorage with bean dip and chicken pot pies.  It cannot offer that moment when one raises the sails on a brisk wind and turns off the engine.  At that very moment, the power of the wind and thousands of years of sailing vessels on the sea come to mind.    At that moment one can  the stark beauty of running before the wind.  A few minutes beyond, and the moment gives way to the reality of perpetual movement, boat sounds and sometimes the entertainment of watching those guests never exposed realize freedom.  "Where would you like to go today?"

Back in Texas, The Republic Of.

We made it back to the house on Saturday and found things in surprisingly good shape.  While we did not plan this visit, it will allow us to take care of things such as stowing stuff in the barn which we did not need aboard.  We will replace some of that stuff with other stuff we deem necessary aboard, but may find later that was wrong.  That stuff may well wind up as barter on some Caribbean island. 

 I am closing my business.  As mentioned before, I planned to keep it open but had an epiphany in mid Mobile Bay that it was not worth the effort.  Accordingly, I have put CST Sales, Inc. to sleep permanently. It was very easy to kill off a company of 28 years with just two  state forms.  Wow, all that time, all those road miles and all those business cards, all those trade shows and all those nights away from Bear are now relegated to a few boxes and memories destined to be in a dumpster some day.  Anyone need a brief case or catalog case?  How about a hundred years supply of paper clips?  Look out Mother Ocean, here we come.

This shore leave will be busy.  We now know that a can of pineapple will explode in the pantry.  Thank goodness the freezer did not stop.  We also know mold will grow on a computer screen and the deer cannot eat all the vines that now cover several sidewalks.  Who would ever guess that two inches of garbage in the dumpster actually can make crude in just six months?  We plan to visit family and friends, perhaps attend a high school home coming, visit doctors, dentists and dermatologists and most importantly we plan to VOTE. 
We are healing from the great Tampa adventure and we are already looking forward to climbing back aboard.  Bear renewed her membership in Curves to accelerate the recovery.   This shore leave is, in a way, the most important for getting underway.  

Sweet Arms of Texas

Bear had a normal but painful reaction to her back fix, severe spasms.  While we were in Tampa for my swivel fix, it became most painful.  She received a shot that will take about two weeks to do its stuff.  I am under orders to lift nothing heavier than a gallon of water for the next six weeks.  The crew is due for extended shore leave.  All things considered, we decided to jump ship for a bit and head back to Texas to recover.  Without at least one of us in highly mobile condition, life aboard may not be the best approach to healing.  That said, we will leave Why Knot today.  We are driving since we have much stuff to take home and throw in the barn; stuff that we no longer need aboard. 

Some things cannot be rushed

It now looks as though the better decision regarding the immediate future of cruising for us to take a time out.  While the recent repairs have gone well, it is very important to take it easy for some time thereafter.  To rush this is to jeopardize it and that could end the cruise.  In the next two weeks, give or take, we will return to Canyon Lake and sit for a bit.  Rumors of exploding can goods in the pantry back home are testament the fact that we have enjoyed the cruise so far, with the obvious exception of medical issues.  We planned to come home every 90 days or so.  There have been other challenges so far but that is part of life in the water world.  We did plan to come ashore more often than we have for visits to our home but never felt the real need to do so until now.  Besides that, we are curious about the status of the house.  For instance, we have battled squirrels (tree rats as a fellow sailor calls them).  They tend to want to eat holes in our house.  We cannot wait to see how many have done that. 

Typical cottage at the Club on Jekyll Island for the ultra wealthy during the 40's

We will leave WK in Charleston. Upon return we head south in November or thereafter.  Hopefully, she will rest well at the Megadock and be ready to go to sea when we return.  Given the challenges so far, we consider ourselves lucky to have made it this far north on the Atlantic Coast.   Not a stellar performance but acceptable to us.  We absolutely enjoy being aboard and visiting the ports and anchorages we have seen so far--- with one exception of course.  We look forward to crossing the Sabine and seeing our family and friends soon.  We haven't had a plate of steaming greasy enchiladas since we left.

Detention


Sitting around the hotel room on a required " rest day" is a bit like being in a detention facility. I started going through some of the photos we have taken along the way and these are some of our favorites..

Key West Schooner



Sunset Morgan City



Bahia Honda Key Sunset



Thoughts on injured reserve

Now that we both have had framwork repair, up pops the issue of entertaining those around us at the marina.  Entertaining?  It must look really funny to see two spasmodics getting around.  It does not look right when those on the big power boats look down at that little sail boat on the Megadock and notice that the entire crew are having trouble with the total absence of grace when boarding the boat.  One BBO (big boat owner) turns to the other whilst having juice and toast on the quarterdeck and mentions the crew  bogging down the dock looking like the big bug character in the movie Men In Black.  The obvious conclusion would be that sailing, albeit at six knots, will take a toll on auld carcasses.  Well, yeah!  He with a horse collar and she with a big black back brace must quite a sight.  There is a benefit to all of this.  We won't be in poor form for not waxing the boat for some time.  And there might be some appreciation for a rotten grape bottle in the cockpit after dark.

I have mentioned the little duckys.  They are the name we have given the junior sailing program participants.  They go by every day in line and all tied together behind a tow boat.  They travel out to the training area and sail back.  We hope they do not notice WKs crew as it might discourage further participation in sailing.  "Gosh Mikey, look at what it has done to those old folks".

Swivel is Fixed

It has been 12 hours since the little laser repair job on my neck.  Methinks it was way easier than the MRI due to my claustrophobia and the little needle exercise to diagnose which nerve was being the outlaw. Anyway, it is done and the clock starts on the get-out-of-Dodge sail away from Charleston.  We  were told it would be about the same time requirement as with Bear's back.  Thus, it will be about six weeks until I can raise sail.  Nothing was said about starting the engine and steering.  Will play that one by seat of the pants rules.  For the next two weeks or so, Bligh has to wear a horse collar.  Bear thinks it is fitting nomenclature since she often refers to me by a two word description starting with the word "horses". 

Can't wait to check in on the Hector colony at the Megadock.  Well, it 2215 and I think I will go get more sleep.  Thanks to those that have offered best wishes.  Be well, y'all.

Tampa D-1

We spent some time with the crew of Breezin and enjoyed an auto cruise of the Tampa area.  We drove back to the Clearwater marina where we stayed as boaters.  The area is heavily built with condos and there is absolutely no comparison in the feeling one gets approaching by sea and by car.  By car, there are glimpses of the waterworld but it stops with the next building blocking the view.  The beaches are the only real way to get even close to the feeling.  From shore, we could see several sailing vessels in the Gulf but one can only guess if they are out for a day sail or have other destinations.  Only by seeing boats up close can one really tell the difference.  Those underway are generally not as cute as those that most of their time in a snug harbor.  Show me a boat with a few fuel cans on an othewise beautiful deck and you have a sea boat.  Show me one with a perfect toe rail and you are looking at either wealth or low sea time. 

We get my swivel fixed tomorrow, we hope.  I am not looking forward to tomorrow but the day after.  Back with more later..

Tampa Part Two

We are back in Tampa to finish that which we should have done last trip here. For the past few days, Bear has been experiencing excruciating “Charley Horses” in her legs. That is a term which I have not heard in 20 years. They were so bad that she was thinking the back repair did not work. After all, it takes all her energy to keep me in line. She finally called the doctors and was told that it is simply a nerve rebuilding thing and they gave her some anti-spasm stuff. By morning yesterday, the symptoms were gone and so was her despair. That little sparkle in her eyes that says so much came back.


I had a chance to grab some really fitful sleep and weird dreams during my turn at the wheel yesterday. Being off Why Knot does present challenges. For instance: how does one get the room to move. The sounds normal to a boat on the water are absent thus challenging to good sleep. For the first time in days, we have not heard thrusters in the early morning, or the pop of the weather deck cooling in the sunset. Another sound that would keep land lubbers awake is that of the dock lines in the early morning hours that stretch and snap when the current caused by tide or some other boat leaving the dock cause WK to tug at the cleats on dock.

The great migration has started. The early arrivals in Charleston are the fast movers that seem to be in some urgent need to get to Fort Lauderdale or Miami to grab that slip reserved for the winter. They talk of three hundred mile days (some actually four hundred plus mile days) and the rough sea conditions caused by the storms offshore. At thirty to forty knots, even those smooth rollers would be uncomfortable. A few sailing vessels are starting to trickle past the area mostly heading to a staging points for the jump to the islands. Favored departure points are Fernandina Beach (Jacksonville, Fl), Forts Pierce and Lauderdale and then on to Miami and Marathon. Of these, Marathon is least spectacular but more boater friendly for those needing some work before the big punch across the Green Monster (Gulf Stream). Gary and Tess, have departed there heading for the Philippines via the Canal. We wonder where Rumba Line is these days. Keeln Time must be in the Chesapeake by now. The point is that like the whales, birds and Winter Texans, folks are starting to move south. We still have two months of hurricane season so some are waiting for the green light to sail south of Virginia as restricted by some insurance. As for Why Knot, the outcome of Monday’s events will determine our sailing schedule. If all goes well, we will come home in mid November then perhaps punch across that Green Monster to the islands for winter. We have done about everything we can think of consistent with our budget to rig Why Knot for the adventure so now she is waiting for crew to come up to speed. We would change some things such as holding off on the heavy provisioning until the need arises and we should have started this cruise much earlier in the scheme of things. Having waited so long to drop those dock lines in Port A has us thinking we only have about 35 more years to do this sailing thing. Then we may have to switch to the dark side and think trawler--- or not.

Been here a long time

While I have been able to deal with my old ADD and be comfortable with life at 6 knots, this is life at zero knots being tied to this dock. We have made best use of our time here and Bear is recovering in fits and spurts. Some days she is painless and some days, mostly because of being out of shape she is sore. So, any time we spend relatively still is a good thing. This time next week, we will have the entire crew on the mend so to speak. By the time we drop dock lines once again, methinks we both will be ready to go. Not sure which direction but most likely south.

Being in one spot for two months has given us the opportunity to observe lots of things. It is sort of like looking out a jail cell window given the heat of the past few days. One of our new found acquaintances (actually mine since Bear thinks I am developing cabin fever and wants nothing to do with she, he or it, not sure) is the Hector family. They are a small colony of barnacles growing on piling #190 just on our port beam outside our double port light. We pass them four times a day on our tidal journey up and down the piling. I have noticed them before but only recently introduced us to them. They are a bit shy and somewhat prone to hide when they emerge from the water. They don’t care much for my squirting them with fresh water either because they sort of spit back and wave a tiny tongue looking thingy just afterward. I gotta quit doing that since I was told they are filter eaters. That means they trap stuff in the water as it passes and then consume whatever it holds. There is (are?) lots of stuff passing that piling every day so they should be well fed. When I squirt them, it cleans out their little cupboard and they go without until the water comes back up. Another way I torment them is to wait until it gets really dark and sneak up with a flashlight. Obviously, that is when they are out of the water. Since first noticing them, the colony has grown so I don’t think it is that detrimental to their growth plans. Since I cannot (dare not) do any of the above to Bear, it is good they are nearby. Now, if I could find a way to communicate with them. I am thinking about squirt cheese and my next move. Think of is as a sort of barnacle canapé looking colony. Bet that would feed ‘em for a long time.

The Hector Colony on piling 190

Then there is Dewain, named after Lighthouse Rick’s pet bird by the same name and same color. Dewain is a youngster that hangs around the dock. I posted a pic of him some time back but we are more acquainted now. He (she) is one heck of a fishing bird. The other day, with coffee in hand from the dock office, I watched him fish for about half an hour. He swings on a slack dock line just above the moving water. He acquires the target from the zillions of minnows hiding between boats. Target lock is noticeable as he gets very, very still and aims his long bill at the victim. In less than the blink of an eye, he is standing upright with sometimes a fish bigger than his beak. What to do next is the dilemma. If large enough, Dewain cannon simply toss it in the air and let it slide down like a slimy oyster. No, size determines whether or not D has to jump on the dock and go at it more deliberately. If small, D simply tosses the fish in the air and it always comes down head first thus making quick work of it all. He got one the other day that was way big for his throat. He walked around a good five minutes with a big bulge half way between his head and his bod. Looked like he was wishing he had not done that. As I said, old Dewain and I have worked out how I walk by without disturbing him. As long as I don’t look at him whilst passing, I can do so as close as three feet. Sneak a peek in the process and D leaves with a noisy complaint. Give me another month and I should be able to get much closer.

Dewain, one cool bird

I am sure the Hectors and Dewain will be glad to see our transom getting smaller in the morning mist. Certainly, we are looking forward to that but in the meantime; they will just have to deal with Bligh.  As I said, we have been here way too long.

Just found that we have a web cam at the dock.  If you have Java, you can pan the thing around and look over the dock.  Find the Kathleen M and we are four boats astern of her.  Here is the website:  http://www.megadock.us/web_cam.html

We are heading to Tampa on Wedensday to get my swivel fixed.  More on that later.

Something from the oven

Keeln Time, before they left us, gave us a book and a can of hamburger meat.  That’s right, a can of hamburger meat.  Sounds terrible huh?  Well, being a Spam fan in the first degree (not the low salt stuff but the real Spam) it even sounded a bit yucky to me too.  Then again, having lived a year on C rations, the idea is not new.  Go with me to yesteryear when resupply came in the form of a case of C rats per man for a six day patrol.  There were twelve meals, each different, but with some of the same condiments.  We got used to the bland nature of those meals and some we would not eat, but they were canned in the 1950’s.  Back to the present.  Keeln Time said they were first introduced to the canned hamburger in the islands where beef is seldom available. Chickens, pigs and seafood are the main meats there.  A fellow cruiser was a bit of a gourmet and he served beef dishes often.  Now if it is not available locally, then canned or frozen imports from the mainland are the only sources.  OK, say I, how does it taste?  Says KT’s crew: “ain’t bad”.  They gave us a can.  They did say that it is fully cooked in the can and that keeps it from spoiling.  Shades of C rats came to mind.  They also warned that when first opened, there is a slight “dog food” aroma to it.  Once heated and mixed into the spaghetti sauce, it is great.  For that matter, tacos are a good use also.  With that in mind, I contacted the company that offers the stuff and ordered a case.  No refrigeration was the key decision maker.  The company is in the Dallas area and they offer canned butter and canned cheese as well as many other “survival” type foods.  Mind you, a 14.5 ounce can is over $6. It must be good at that price.  Did I mention that we had yet to try the one KT gave us? 

Tiring somewhat from our usual method of snacking around, I decided to do a real meal for Bear.  You know the routine, dishes, napkins, fake candle on the table and even a Caesar salad.  The main course was spaghetti with meat sauce.  I might have made a bit of a poor decision by breaking out a can of sauce that we put aboard back in January.  Well, the expiration date just passed so it must still be good.  After all, they take a conservative approach when applying those dates anyway.  Don’t they?

I seated Bear in the late afternoon sunshine in the cockpit with a somewhat mediocre glass of ships wine.  Well, we have all this wine aboard also stowed in January.  She and I have decided to drink the stuff lest it ruin, so to speak.  I charged into the galley with the gusto of a hound dawg and started the food prep thingy.  The can of sauce was ok I guessed since the ends were not bulging and it tasted ok.  Not exactly what I had hoped but it would do.  The pasta was humming along in the water in the microwave and  that is when I opened the can of hamburger.  To say that it had a “slight” dog food aroma was off by a wee bit.  It was mostly the immediate and complete cabin filling smell of more like cat food that stopped me and caused the reaction.  The mind immediately went back to the Nam and those C rats.  It was good that I was warned lest I chunk that $6 can of meat out the hatch.  Ok, thinks I, it looks great and there is no fat in the can.  It must have been 99% lean and fully cooked.  Wanting, needing, to dissipate that aroma, I dropped it in the sauce and started mixing.  The other thing immediately noticeable is that it is not chunky.  It is fine ground so when mixed in too much sauce, it sort of disappears, but not the aroma.  Spaghetti sauce con dog food is unique.  I was able to mitigate some negatives with enough oregano, pepper and other spices such as fajita seasoning and it turned out marginally like spaghetti  sauce with meat.  The meal went fine, thanks perhaps to an over-serving of ships wine. 

Once completed and with a movie in the player, I cleaned the table and the dishes.  We still had about half a gallon of sauce left over which would otherwise have been in the freezer.   Bear and I decided not to keep the leftovers and thought some harbor dwelling denizen might enjoy it.  The bottom line is that we have decided that while near fresh provisioning, we might just stow that meat, all 12 cans we now have in inventory.  It might taste much better after being away from beef for a few months whilst we are in the islands--- or not. 

PS: We have decided that some of the stuff we “laid on” back in January might, just might have reached a premature expiration date.  One sure sign is a can that has bulging ends or maybe crackers that no longer crunch.  Then there was that can of exploding anchovies, but that is another story.

Gypsies in the Palace



Megadock nearly vacant



Why Knot sitting patiently

Ok so even crew members on mega yachts run out of things to do and when the boss is on shore, things can and do happen. We witnessed last evening one such “departure” from ship’s rules and decorum. Bear and I, waiting for dinner to cook below, were having a glass of grapes topside in the cockpit when we noticed a development. I met the crew and captain of a very nice boat nearby and they were looking forward to a few lay days without guests. It all started when one of the crew sort of swore the boat astern of us to secrecy: “you see nothing, right”. The covers were removed from the cocktail deck chairs and not one of the crew was in uniform. Just then, a number of young female adults were delivered to the boat by golf cart. Pictures were snapping everywhere and much revelry was underway. It was obvious the party was unsanctioned and of a rather casual character. A captain of another boat walked by and whispered to us that he hoped the owner’s nanny cam was not in use lest this crew would be looking for another ship. They were into the liquor locker and knifing corks from Champaign (real stuff not sparkling wine) with much giggling. They were recruiting others aboard with offers of Grey Goose, etc. By the time we retired, there were a couple dozen folks aboard. Fortunately, the music was neither loud nor obnoxious. Early morning revealed several trash bags on the dock. We were reminded of the Jimmy Buffett song: Gypsies in the Palace. I thought at one time of strolling by the boat with my glass held over my head at about the right level of the party deck and just merely suggest that we saw nothing ((Grey Goose)) and wished them a fine evening. Bear thought that they might not take the hint and would not let me do that.


 The boat count on the Megadock this morning is at its lowest since we arrived. I am told that after the Annapolis boat show, that will change. Since we have no large mountains between us and the wi-fi antennas on dock, we get a good, free signal. Most of the other mega yachts will be leaving soon and as the weather cools (finally) it is time for us to start the planning. Do we take a right or left after leaving this place?

Cool Front

We had a cool front pass this area last night so at first light this morning, the air was cool and dry. So much so that we turned the a/c off and opened the hatches. It is almost as if to say that relief is on the way in the form of the fall season. Although we are in the peak hurricane season, the cooler air is welcome and might be the time for a positive attitude about the storm future. Who knows? Whatever the benefit, Bear has chosen to take her pre-lunch nap in the cockpit.


There is talk about the increase in dock reservations for the winter months which heralds the great migration soon to take place. Some come just this far south and stay from December through March before turning north again. For some, this port will only be a brief stopover on the trek to the Keys or the islands. We are not sure what we will do. Much depends on how soon my junky butt can get underway after the neck thing. We do not plan to stay this far north and do plan to get to the islands this winter. No plan, no schedule and no destination!

The Captain of Bacalao returned last evening and we were yammering about wazzup when two other captains joined the yammering. All, except the captain of that little sailboat down the dock, operate large vessels. It was entertaining to listen about the plans. One is heading out after their final charter this weekend. They will take the vessel to the Ft. Lauderdale area and resume operations from there for the winter. Another will head directly to the islands in a month. Not sure where Bacalao will go since the owner cannot be aboard for a bit longer. She might stay here for an extended period. It is a bit of a surprise that many of the mega yachts are chartered out between owner visits.

So far as the boats that run before the wind, there are a few fifty feet boats here but most are in the thirty to high forty feet range. Like most ports, most do not leave. The anchorage opposite this dock has a couple dozen boats that appear to never leave judging from the growth on their anchor rodes. There are a couple of boats that appear to be waiting to leave at some signal from Mother Ocean.

We have been making some upgrades and improvements to Why Knot whilst here. We have replaced the lifelines, added fender covers and deck fuel tank covers and will soon unship the CQR anchor and replace it with a heavy Rocna. In addition, we will be moving the SSB from the overhead at the nav station to the nav station panel. That overhead thingy is hard on the neck. My progress in working the dang thing (single side band radio) is slow but I think I am getting the hang of it. Has my ability to understand a manual diminished since being underway or is it simply crumbly setting in? We have added some minor parts such as a check valve to the a/c condensation line to make screen changing easier without all that silt getting into the bilge. The city of Charleston gets a resounding A+ but the mud under the harbor gets an F. This stuff can be used as a weapon, so when it gets aboard we clean for days to rid ourselves of pre-petroleum ambiance. Sort of makes one sympathetic for the cave men that lived during the time of dinosaurs.

We look forward to visiting friends we met along the way and those ports we did not truly enjoy because Bear couldn’t get off the boat. As one bridge tender put it: We look forward to raising this bridge for you on your way back.

After several weeks of seemingly in-activity, this place is starting to awaken. Soon, the grand fleets of south bounders will be here. Sort of reminds you of a Mutual of Omaha spot: While the lion makes quick work of old Jim, Marlan describe the autumn sunset--- or not.

Procrastination

Bear continues to improve by she did have three naps today after sleeping late.  Guess that is what one does on a Sunday.  I had several projects to do today such as continue the internet class for my 25 ton Masters ticket, work on my SSB skills and clean the a/c strainer.  All of that has been interrupted by, of all things a book that Keeln Time loaned us.  The book is And The Sea Will Tell by Vincent Bugliosi.  I am an avid non-book worm but this one caught me.  A true story of "....Murder on as South Seas Island".  Those of the boating, particularly sailing ilk will find this one pretty good.  The strainer won't wait but the rest of today's duties will have to.

The Megadock was fairly crowded last night with about a dozen mega yachts and about the same number of lesser.  One disadvantage of being on the "inside" away from the traffic is that one can have house sized walls of aluminum block the view and the wind.  Such was so at rack time last night.  I went topside at 0500 this morning just as two of them were leaving.  That freed up about 300 feet of view for the morning sunrise.  Heavy rains early this morning got me out of the rack and on the lightening damage control mode.  That means unplugging almost everything electronic aboard.   Bear, trusting me to accomplish the task without supervision slept through a nasty thunderstorm.  Some hits were in this marina but as far as I can tell, we escaped. 

Getting up that early brings on a powerful urge to raid the refrigerator whilst the coffee maker chatters away in the corner of the galley.  Breakfast today consisted of King Ranch Chicken.  Ever tried it for the first meal of the day?  Good stuff.  That and a sugarless Red Bull and one is ready to get-r-done.  Next thing I knew and it was lunch time with none of the duties accomplished except four chapters of that darn book.  It is 1400 now and there is still time to work on the list---- or not.

Charleston Update

When we began this cruise, we said that we would have no plan, no schedule and no particular destination. That has allowed us to enjoy each place, albeit for a night on the hook or, as it turns out, several weeks in Charleston. We have seen the pressure to be somewhere at some particular time as it has affected several other boats. Some are driven to get north, as we were at one period of our cruise. We will soon see the pressure to get south or to the islands. That leaves us with a bit of a decision to make. When we are done with all the medical issues and are clear to taxi, do we head north for the remainder of the warm months or do we cool it a bit and wait until the cool weather chases us south and most likely to the islands. Another factor is the visit to Texas during the holidays. How long will determine where in the great migration we fall.


Apparently, the southern migration causes much congestion along the waterway and in some cases, huge congestion at certain ports where boats wait for the “weather window” to cross the green monster (Gulf Stream) and play in the islands. One favorite staging port is Marathon, Fl where there are several hundred mooring buoys and a facility to accommodate hundreds of crews. When we stayed there, only a few dozen boats were there. We were told that Boot Key Harbor can be a real zoo if weather windows do not come a go regularly. Who knows? This is our first rodeo.

We reached a wonderful milestone yesterday. Admiral Bear took her first unassisted walks on the Megadock. She got off the boat by herself and walked about half a mile or so in two sets. It was the first time in several months that she did not need assistance just to move. Limited walking is part of the recovery process which will take some time. Having been immobile for five months has left her “out of shape” to say the least. We hope to see continuous improvement to the point where she once would walk the beach for hours. Who knows? We might start using the dink again. It has been patiently parked on the bow for over five months and that means we have missed much along the way. We will not miss it on the reverse. That is of course, if we are in good favor with Mother Ocean. We are looking forward to some offshore time and this place has inlets from sea spaced about right for overnighters. Besides that, Why Knot is tugging at the dock lines seeking to be underway once again.

By the way, I still have not done the toe rails.  I did re-patch the dink, same hole, for the third time.  That about did it for the day yesterday.  Wouldn't want to overdo it.

It Can Happen

The day started with the departure of Keeln Time toward points north.  It was high tide and at a level not seen by us since being here.  We were about to start some boat chores when I decided to whip by the dock office for a coffee when I noticed something unusual on the way. 

This is not some type of crane

Boys and girls, this is what is left of a once beautiful mast on a new Hunter 45.  Seems that the 56 feet bridge just one half mile from here up the Ashley River from this dock took a bit of a revenge on the Capt. and Crew of this boat. 

This mast has an "in-mast" rolled main and was barely standing when she docked.

 

 

The captain said there was a slight variance between his chart and reality.  My guess is that he sailed under the bridge at low tide and attempted departure at high tide.  We certainly know what is in the mind of the crew at this time. Since our event, we have seen two others.  In the case of a mast this tall and in mast main furling, methinks that the tab will approach $50 k.  This boat was heading to Ft. Lauderdale to meet their moving truck for a new home. 

The Cruise

Some may think our cruise started in January, 2010. Well it did not. It actually started in 1959 in Merkel, Texas when I first saw Bear. There were no boats in sight in that West Texas town but we were cruising, so to speak, around the universe. Yesterday was our 42 nd anniversary, but counting the 7 years we dated before signing on permanently with each other, we have been on this cruise for 49 years. We have celebrated anniversaries in several home ports such as Merkel, Arlington, Fort Benning, Georgia, Los Angeles, Chicago, Canyon Lake and a few in between. Of all those years, we have been apart on our anniversary only one time. We added Charleston, SC. yesterday to the list. Who knows how many other ports will host an anniversary celebration? Time has taken its due from us but for now, we are still able to keep our vessel in the channel. Obviously, the past nine months have had their moments, perhaps the most active for us in decades. With Bear’s retirement and my oozing out of business, we have managed to challenge our carcasses, our spirits and our imaginations. Even as late as a year ago, we really did not think we would do this. Of course, we kept the story up to our cruising friends. All it really took was to have a friend or two and some relatives to exit the planet and we were motivated. So yesterday was our 49th year in the cruise and Bear has made it a true dream come true. No finer a shipmate ever existed. We would change very little of it if we could. Now, today we continue that cruise started in a dusty little town in Texas almost half a century ago.


The crew of Keeln Time caught up with us day before yesterday when they surprised us by calling only a few minutes before arriving at this dock. It was good to see them and we invited them to our celebration dinner last evening. We did what all sailors do: told stories of challenges, of places visited and of characters we have met along the way. They are motivated to move on to the Chesapeake as soon as possible since this is their second year trying to get that far north. Just as we have had our challenges, in their attempts to get north, they have been struck by lightning two times and had some family business ashore to change the plans. Ah planning, that is the scourge of cruising.

Rick, Vicky and Bear

Early this morning, a Moorings (charter Beneteau) came along side at the fuel dock. There were two old dawgs and a younger female with a British accent. They took on fuel in every type of container imaginable, including gallon water jugs. Given the amount of fuel they were buying, I had to ask their destination. The boat appeared new and had no radar, no solar panels or generators, in fact few signs of a pending voyage requiring that much fuel. The response was that they were heading today for Tortola. Yikes, this is hurricane season! We confirmed our plans to make it into the BVI, but “It might be a bit”. They suggested that we cut loose and go with them. They little suspected that after Vietnam, I have become a bit less inclined to slap the devil. As they pulled away, I bid them Fair Winds. May Mother and their skills deliver them safe to the islands. Who knows? Perhaps we will see them again somewhere. I sure hope we don’t read about them. As for today, I plan to attempt to put off tomorrow that which I should do today, not the least of which is the toe rail redo--- or not.

Update:  Noticing several other Moorings  boats at the Beneteau dealership just across the fairway, I moseyed over to ask some questions about how they are outfitted, mostly about the anchors.  One of the crews was getting ready to leave the dock and they confirmed the same destination as the earlier boat we witnessed.  The fellow told me that these are the first of 39 boats sold to Moorings by this dealer.  What economy slump?

Good Guys taking on fuel

What Earl?

Yesterday marked the closest approach old Earl made to South Carolina.  Here in Charleston there were few signs of old Earl.  The tides were more or less normal and the air temp was very nice until late in the day when a wind shift brought some steam in.  Folks here were not phased by Earl except the surfers on the Folly Beach.  They were treated to some spectacular wave action.  The harbor on the other side of the peninsula did get some spectacular rollers.  Otherwise, it was a non-event.

Our decision to get my neck fixed will cause us to remain here for at least another month.  Gee, that is not all bad.  Since mid September is peak season for Atlantic storms, we think any attempt to head north is ill advised for now.  Earl surely disrupted maritime interests up north anyway.

Sunrise the day Earl passed

Strolling the dock yesterday, I spoke with a fellow that had a huge mess on his hands.  He was cleaning strainers which he claims to do every four days.  This place offers amazing sea life some of which love strainers.  The really repulsive critter is a sea grape.  That is short for a slime ball that grows very fast and those guys love through hull fittings.  I had a close encounter with one the other day.  They are about the size of a large grape, fairly firm on the outside and slick, almost impossible to hold.  Caught one of them growing in our a/c strainer.  Says I:  just pluck the critter out and toss him overboard.  Easier said than done.  Without disassembling the strainer completely, it was like trying to grab a greased olive in the bottom of a Coke bottle with chopsticks.  Had 'em several times only to drop 'em back in the hole.  Just as I was thinking about taking the strainer apart, I got him to the neck of the opening.  Just then, he decided to let me have it.  Said critter has a way of squirting a really foul liquid over great (relative) distances.  I was about to toss him out the companionway and had him in a curve ball grip.  He managed to squirt stuff all over the engine compartment and me.  OK, suckah, you are outta here.  I accelerated him to mach .0000001 but missed the water and he wound up on the cockpit sole.  He did it again.  Mind you, the stuff could be used to make perps leave the hide out.  So, I lined up for to kick him out of the transom opening.  Did not work.  Seems the non-skid allowed me to spread his remains over about six inches of deck.  More smell sorta like the drippings from a seafood restaurant dumpster.  Ok, a quick squirt from the swim deck shower and he entered the food chain off the stern,  or so I thought.  This morning, the stench is still aboard only more subtle.  Since today is boat wash day, I hope to remove him completely.  The big boat guys all use Cascade dish soap to keep decks clean.  Perhaps I will try that-- or not.